Halaman

Showing posts with label medicinal herbs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label medicinal herbs. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Herb Class April 1st, 2012

Please realize this information is for educational purposes only. Some of the plants discussed below are toxic and should not be used by anyone but a professional trained to do such. Do not ingest these herbs. These notes are posted for 2012 herb class. The class is not posted in its entirety. These are brief notes to help remind my class of what we covered.
 
I am late getting these notes and photos up from the April herb class, but here it is. The weather was nasty this day  and the creek was a mess from the storn, so we did not get to see as much as I had wished. I don’t have everything here, but have tried to include most of what we saw and discussed. You can find dosage information in my book. I have not listed it here due to lack of time.

First we started our discussion on Oregon grape. We discussed it last time but I forgot to mention that the older the plants are the more berberine they contain and the berberine content seems to be higher from plants collected at lower altitudes. You also find the highest concentration in the root bark although the stem bark is also used.

Then we went over the different categories of laxatives used in herbal medicine and talked about the herbs in each category. Next time we will look at the Cascara by the creek. No one wanted to be outside any longer so we went inside seeking shelter from the rain and cold before finishing our herb walk.



Overview form the morning discussion on Laxatives.

Bulking laxatives: Act via fiber such as oat bran and psyllium husks.

Stool Moisteners: Act to moisten the stool such as fresh mucilaginous or rehydrated mucilaginous herbs such as marshmallow or slippery elm bark, oily seeds such as flax (also a bulking laxative), cholagogue herbs such as dandelion or oregon grape and don’t forget water.

Stimulating Laxatives: These are the purgative herbs which increase bowel activity when there is insufficient peristalsis. These include cascara, aloe, and senna as examples.

Sedating Laxatives: Antispasmodics used when there is constipation due to a spasmodic bowel. Seen with alternating diarrhea and constipation accompanied by pain and chronic spasms.



Echinacea Processing

We pressed out the Echinacea and will filer it during our next class. We also filtered out the popular bud tincture we made last time.
















 The Herb Walk

When it warmed up outside, we went out for a little walk to collect horseradish root, and nettle. We also looked at Red current, Wasabi, Uva ursi, Rosemary, Dandelion, Pulsatilla, Bloodroot, and a variety of other herbs poking their heads out of the ground.

Stinging Nettles
Stinging Nettles - Urtica spp.
My nettles are behind time here at this altitude, but Cari brought some to make up for it. We made a lovely pesto with them. I have already went over information on nettles and the pesto on an earlier blog. You can find it here.




Wasabi - Wasabi Japonica
 The taste of wasabi comes from glucosinolates. Glucosinolates can also be found in horseradish, turnips, pak-choi, rutabaga, mustard, cabbage, brussel sprouts, brocolli, caulifolower, kale, kohlrabi, watercress, rapeseed and radish.

When we eat wasabi or another gulcosinolate containing plant, the act of chewing it alters the glucosinolate. We activate an enzyme in wasabi that changes glucosinolate to isothiocyanate or thiocyanates or other compounds. If the wasabi has been dried the enzymes gets destroyed in the drying process unless it undergoes freeze drying.

For you science buffs, glucosinolates are hydrolyzed by either the enzyme glucosinolase or thioglucosidase into glucose, HSO4- , and one of the following aglycone derivatives: isothiocynates, thiocyanates, nitriles, or related compounds such as oxazolidine-2-thiones. The enzymes for hydrolysis are produced by plants and by rumen organisms. They react with the glucosinolates when plant tissue is crushed, for example by mastication (chewing), or when the plant is consumed into the rumen of a ruminant animal such as a goat, cow or bison.

Isothiocyanates have been found in research to be anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antifungal, anticarcinogenic, antioxidant, protective of kidney neprhons, and protective of the cardiovascular system.

Isothiocyanates are irritating to mucous membranes and not readily consumed in sufficient quantities to be toxic. However, if they are consumed as glucosinolates and then hydrolyzed to isothiocyanates via mastication or in the gut, they can have powerful antithyroid effects and interfere with the synthesis of necessary thyroid hormones.

In animal studies they have identified that the animals can tolerate 10% of their diet being rapeseed (also contains glucosinolates) before they have symptoms of poisoning from the glucosinolates. Glucosinolates are thioethers. These compounds often contribute a bitter, "hot" taste to condiments (mustard, horseradish) and may exhibit goitrogenic or antithyroid activity.

Uva ursi - Arctostaphylos uva ursi
This plant is also known as Kinnikinnick  which was the Algonquian word for “mixture”. Uva ursi was mixed with tobacco and smocked. Some people still smoke it today.  Some how the name Kinnikinnick began being used for Uva ursi itself. Ursi is most known for its use in urinary tract infections. The leaves contain arbutin, an antiseptic that is hydrolyzed by gut bacteria to hydroquinone.  In alkaline urine, hydroquinone is an effective antimicrobial agent and uva ursi itself tends to alkalinize the urine. Arbutin itself also contributes to the antiseptic activity in the urinary tract. Consumption of this herb may cause a green tinge in the urine.

This plant is usually used short term as larger doses or use long term is contraindicated. It should not be used in pregnancy because of the oxytocic properties. Toxic doses can cause nausea, vomiting, tinnitus, difficult breathing, and really excessive doses can cause convulsions and loss of consciousness. Arbutin inhibits the degradation of insulin and may be problematic for those with hypoglycemia.

Dandelion - Taraxacum officinalis
Dandelion
Dandelion is a mild laxative, diuretic (especially the leaf) coloagogue, choleretic, blood thinner, antioxidant and blood thinner. It has been used in arthritis, gout,  edema, gastric headaches and a variety of liver ailments. The whole plant, especially the root, is beneficial to the liver but is slow in producing the desired action. Autumn roots are roasted and used as a coffee substitute. The high inulin content, especially in the autumn makes dandelion root a good food source for beneficial gut bacteria.

Red current - Ribes rubrum
Red Current
Red Current
 All the Currants are an excellent source of vitamins and antioxidants. Red Currants have mildly laxative, astringent (leaves especially), appetite increasing, diuretic and digestive properties. It can calm stomach upsets. Tea made from dried leaves can be helpful in relieving the symptoms of gout and rheumatism. The leaves can also be useful in treatment of slow healing wounds, and as a gargle in cases of mouth infections.









Rosemary - Rosmarinus officinalis
Rosemary was beginning to bud out and although damaged by the storm, was still beautiful. This common cooking herb has a long history of medicinal use. It has been used as a nervine, astringent, carminative, cholagogue, choleretic, hepatoprotective, antispasmodic, diuretic etc....

Rosemary
Its strong antioxidant effect has gained the interest of food processors in the past who have tried to use it as a natural preservative but they decided they did not want all their food tasting like rosemary so it did not catch on in a big way.  
Rosemary has always been said to help with memory and recently research investigated its use in this way. They found that indeed it does seem to help with cognitive abilities but smaller doses were more effective than larger doses.


Bloodroot - Sanguinaria canadensis
Bloodroot
 This is a low-dose herb. This means it is toxic and you should not use it unless you are a professional trained to do such. It is used by health care professionals to support people in cancer therapy.


Bloodroot is in the poppy family. The part of the plant used is the root. It is very bitter and acrid tasting. Not a plant you consume as a food for sure.

Bloodroot
Bloodroot is an antispasmodic, expectorant and diaphoretic as well as diuretic and choleretic. However, due to its possible toxicity other herbs get used in its place generally. It does get used sometimes in acute or subacute respiratory tract illness by practitioners. You will see it used in bronchitis, laryngitis, nasal catarrh and after pneumonia where debility persists. The most common traditional use has been for internal  use in cancer formulas and even more so, externally in cancer salves. It is of course illegal for anyone but an oncologist to treat someone for cancer currently. However, there are people still making salves and herbal formulas for this use but they are not allowed to treat cancer with them.

Studies show the constituent, sanguinarine, helps reduce and limit the deposition of dental plaque.. You will find it in some toothpastes as an antiplaque agent.

 Contraindications: It is contraindicated in pregnancy due to the emmenagogue effect and uterine stimulating activity of the alkaloids, berberine, protopine and chelerythrine, as reported in animal studies. Over-dosage can cause nausea and vomiting, hepatitis, vertigo, visual disturbances and prostration. Do not use this herb unless under the guidance of a trained health care practitioner. The fresh root is more dangerous than the dry root.  Professionals do not use more than 1-2 drops every 2-4 hours in acute phase, then 1-2 drops per day after the acute phase.

Pulsatilla - Anemone pulsatilla
Pulsatilla
This is another low-dose herb. This means you should not use it unless you are a trained professional. It gets used in very small doses.

Pulsatilla is in the Buttercup family. The whole plant, especially the root is used. It has an acrid and bitter taste to it.


Pulsatilla is an anti-inflammatory, sedative and analgesic. Used for people who have nervous conditions like fearfulness, general nervousness, dejection, emotional lability, and weep easily. Often the person feels exhausted and perceives that they are not in control. They may have heart palpitations and insomnia. The individual is gentle, with a yielding disposition, and has changeable symptoms and moods. It is used for amenorrhea following wet cold feet, endometriosis, ovarian neuralgia ovarian congestion and inflammation, with dull, nagging, aching, tearing pains. It is useful with unbearable headaches prior to menses.


Contraindications: An overdose can cause toxicity with sensations of burning in the mouth and throat, abdominal pain, nausea, vomiting, bloody diarrhea, slowed pulse and breathing, hypo-thermia, sensory and motor depression, stupor, coma and convulsions. Because it is a uterine stimulant, it is contraindicated in pregnancy.

Artichoke - Cynara scolymus
Artichoke




This is a common garden plant with a lot of healthy kick to it. It is a strong antioxidant used to protect the liver  from damage and to regenerate damaged liver tissue. It is a cholagogue and a choleretic. Research shows it lowers cholesterol and lipids, decreases atherosclerosis and acts to thin the blood. It is also helpful in preventing gall stones, and irritable bowel. The artichoke flavonoids appear useful in supporting cardiovascular health by supporting endothelial integrity via increasing endothelial nitric oxide production. The part commonly used as a medicine is the leafy parts early in the spring when still young and fresh.



Lily of the Valley - Convallaria majalis


Lily of the Valley
We also looked examined Lilly of the Valley which is used in congestive heart failure (Another botanical that only trained folks should use.) Some students dug up and took some of this wonderful smelling plant home with them.

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Marshmallow Flowers As a Medicine

I have used the root of marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) for about 25 years as a medicine. A few years ago I started experimenting with the flowers which have a slight mucilaginous characteristic to them. They are not super mucilaginous like the root is but still they seemed promising. I made a guess that they would have some anti-inflammatory and vulnerary (wound healing) ability and tried using them on wounds which proved to be beneficial.

 
I was happy to see this recent research article from Lebonon that examined a tea of marshmallow flower in relation to its effect on lipemia, gastric ulcers, inflammation and platelet aggregation(platelets are involved in blood clotting). The abstract can be viewed here:



What the research found was the following: Marshmallow flowers increase serum HDL (what is called the good cholesterol), they have significant anti-inflammatory acitivity (acute and chronic inflammation) and decrease the growth of gastric ulcers. Additionally there was inhibition of platelet aggregation.

They also examined their effect on liver enzymes to see if the flowers would harm the liver in any way. None was seen.

For information on marshmallow root go to this link: 

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Making Herbal Tea

Herbal teas are inexpensive, easy to make and they impose a ceremonial process during their preparation as well as a rest time while drinking them.

Tools To Make Teas
If you have something to cook water in and a canning jar, you have all the tools you need. Some other useful items are a Kettle, Teapot, French Press, and Mug. Be sure your tools are glass, stainless steel or enamel. You don’t want to use a container that might react with the herbs. 

Safety
Only make teas with herbs that are safe to drink.

Types of Tea Preparations
Teas are divided into two basic types of tea preparations. The infusion and decoction. Depending on what you want to extract from the herb and how dense the herb is will depend on which type of preparation you use.

When To Choose An Infusion 
Infusions are used for extraction of labile constituents such as vitamins, enzymes and volatile oils. They are also used for delicate and less dense parts of the plant such as flowers and leaves. Some seeds are also infused as well as roots with volatile oils such as elecampane or valerian.

When To Choose A Decoction
Decoctions are used for plant constituents that require more time and heat for extraction, such as mineral salts, bitter constituents and hard, dense plant parts such as barks, roots, and some seeds.

Infusions

How to Make An Infusion
An infusion is a gentle method to extract constituents from the herb. When making an infusion, the plant material is cut small, torn up or bruised to release its essence. The idea is to get as many parts of the plant in contact with the water as possible. If you have bought "cut & sift" herb from someone else, it is probably already cut up for use in an infusion.

Example of timing and how it changes the ultimate preparation

If you infuse an herb like chamomile the essential oil will be released quickly and taste and smell divine if drank within a few minutes. However, if you want the bitter constituents in chamomile which often we do if using it medicinally, you want to infuse it longer. The longer you infuse it the more bitter it will get.


Directions for one cup of infusion

Three recommended methods:
(a)     Add one cup of boiling water to one heaping tablespoon of dry herb or three heaping tablespoons of fresh herb in an air-tight container like a canning jar. Let it steep for 10-25 minutes.

(b)   Bring one cup of water to boil in a stainless steel or glass kettle. Remove the kettle from the burner and add one heaping tablespoon of the dry herb or three heaping tablespoons of fresh herb to the water. Cover the kettle with a tight fitting lid.  Steep for 10-25 minutes. Remove the lid, strain and drink the liquid. 

(c)  Put one heaping tablespoon of dry herb or three heaping tablespoons of fresh herb in a pint canning jar. Pour one cup of boiling water over the herb and put the lid on the canning jar. Let it sit overnight and drink the next morning. This method is often used for extracting minerals. When I am attempting to extract minerals I put extra herb in my jar. I often put a handful in and fill the quart jar with water. Most mineral rich herbs are food herbs such as oats and drinking strong teas is okay. If you use herbs in large amounts, make sure they are safe herbs to consume in quantities.
 
(d)  Put one heaping tablespoon of dry herb or three heaping   tablespoons of fresh herb in a pint canning jar. Pour one cup of room temp or cool water over the herb and put the lid on the canning jar. Let it sit overnight and drink the next morning. This will make a very mild infusion and picks up small amounts of volatile oils and energetic essences of the plant. Often this method is used for full moon infusions.

These infusions can be consumed hot or cold, depending on the specific usage. Large quantities can be made and stored in the refrigerator. Do not store tea for longer than 3 days because it may grow mold.


Solar Infusion
This type of infusion relies on the sun to provide heat to draw out constituents.  You put your herb into a canning jar. Then add clean spring water, well water or filtered water using the same amounts as listed above. (1 T per cup water if dry or 3 T per cup water if fresh.) Simply multiple the herb and water depending on how much tea you want to end up with.  You put the herb in the jar. Pour cold water over the herb, tighten the lid on the jar and put the jar in the direct sun. I often make sun tea in gallon canning jars when I have friends visit.

Lunar Infusion
Lunar infusions are wonderful for certain herbs. I place the herb in the jar and pour cold rather than hot water over the herb and place it under the moon at night. Usually I do this when the moon is full. It is especially nice for herbs with volatile oils. I do notice quite a difference when it is hot at night as compared to when it cools down. The heat of course does much of the extraction. When cool out at night, I get just the bare essence of the plant. I have to be sure to retrieve it before the sun is up. It is lovely and somewhat magical with certain plants. I suggest you try this with something like peppermint. Although I have used them medicinally for people, I usually don’t as I generally want the full range of constituents I can get from a hot extraction when I am using a tea medicinally.

Decoctions

How to Make A Decoction
In a kettle, bring one cup of water and one tablespoon of dry herb or three heaping tablespoons of fresh herb to a boil. Cover the kettle with a tight fitting lid, and simmer the ingredients for 15 - 25 minutes. Remove the kettle from the burner and steep ten minutes. Strain and drink.

Examples of when to choose an infusion or decoction

 If you are trying to extract minerals from an herb like nettles you can either use a hot water infusion overnight or you can decoct it for 25 minutes. They will both give you a similar amount of minerals. (I have made both up and sent it to a lab for testing.The decoction gave a tad bit more but not enough to matter.) However, the overnight infused one in my opinion usually tastes better. I am more likely to drink something that tastes good, so guess which one I will make. Usually, leafy herbs like nettles are not decocted and the only time I would decoct them is if I want to extract something like minerals and don't have the time for a 12 hour infusion.

Roots are generally decocted as they are dense and hard. However, if you are decocting a root with volatile oils such as valerian or elecampane you will want to infuse the root so you do not loose the essential oils. To make sure you extract it completely, you can cut up or pulverize the root into small pieces so the water can get into more parts of the root for a better extraction. You don't want a powder, you just want it mashed up or cut small.

Drinking the Tea
Ahhhh, now for the relaxing part.
The amount of tea you ingest will depend on if you are ingesting it for pleasure,  or health. It will also make a difference if using it for health reasons,  why you are using it. It is impossible to give a specific amount to drink, but since I know you want a guideline, I would tell you that  ½ - 1 cup three to five times a day will usually be the range. Some herbs need to be taken in very small amounts to work. For instance if you are using a bitter to stimulate digestion, you only need a few sips of a strong tea for it to help. Acute conditions usually require more of a tea and it is usually taken more often than chronic conditions. Some herbs should only be taken in small amounts as they are can be irritating if taken in large amounts of too often. It is important to always know what you are ingesting before ingesting it.

More On Teas In The Next Blog
There is so much to tell you about teas. What do you do when you want to prepare a formula of 6 different herbs and some need to be decocted and some infused?  How do you make bad tasting teas taste better? What are the advantages and disadvantages of herbal teas. This and more will be awaiting us in a soon to come blog. If you have a question about teas, let me know so you can see the answer in the next tea blog. In fact, if you have any questions about herbs, please speak up so you can get an answer in a future herb blog.

Saturday, December 31, 2011

More Herbal Videos Available

I uploaded another herbal video to YouTube a few days ago. It was uploaded in two parts as listed below. I hope you enjoy them and if you watch them, don't forget to "like" them.

Edible & Medicinal Herbs 1 - Part 1 - In this video I take you for a walk where you learn how to identify and use Colts foot, Oregon grape, Stinging nettles, False solomons seal, Wild ginger, Heal all, Wild ginger, Wild strawberry, Trillium, Hazel nut tree, Plantain, Candy stripe, and Bunch berry, and Horsetail as food and or medicine.  


Edible & Medicinal Herbs 1 - Part 2 - In this video I take you for a walk where you learn how to identify and use  Saint John's Wort, Balsamroot, Yarrow, Chickweed, English daisy, Ball Head Cluster Lilly, and Iris as food and medicine. Additionally she explains some wildcrafting and collection techniques and you learn how to make Saint John's Wort oil. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMEbGyd5YD0&feature=related

The Edible & Medicinal Herbs II - Part 1 and 2 was made available a few weeks back and you will find links to them from Edible & Medicinal Herbs 1 - Part 2 on YouTube at the end of that video if you missed these before.

Friday, December 23, 2011

Harvesting Herbs - Wildcrafting

It is so gratifying and empowering to collect herbs in the garden, field or wood-land  area and then lovingly dry them for tea or make them into an herbal elixir, tincture, salve or other healing medicine. These simple skills should  and can be available to anyone willing to take the time to learn. Today, I will discuss harvesting techniques with you.

Harvesting of plants can be split up into a couple categories. Harvesting from your garden and wildcrafting. Harvesting from you garden is simpler than wildcrafting. Wildcrafting has a few additional requirements to consider. We will go over these before we get into the nitty gritty of how to collect herbs. If you are harvesting from your own land or garden, you can skip the legal issues and social responsibilities of wildcrafting that follow below.

Legal Issues and Social Responsibilities When Wildcrafting

Wildcrafting is the practice of harvesting plants from their natural habitat for the use of food or medicine. When wildcrafting there are a number of  things to account for. If you are harvesting on your own land there will be no legal issues but if you are harvesting on someone else’s land be sure you have permission from the private land owner or if on publicly owned land make sure you know the state or federal laws and abide by them. Often with public land it is as simple as getting a permit that can be obtained for free. Permits can be obtained from the ranger station, BLM office or parks and recreation office, depending on who is maintaining the land you wish to harvest from. They will usually want to know where you are going to harvest, what you are harvesting, how much you will be harvesting, if it is for self use or market use and do you know what you are doing.

One thing I would advise you to inquire of them is if there is going to be any new road installation, timber sales (clear-cuts specifically), power line installation or buildings/parking on the land they are managing. If there is, you may want to scout that specific area out for herbs you can use. If they are going to cover the area with roads or buildings or clear-cut the area, there are many herbs you can collect and use rather than seeing them wasted under asphalt or concrete. In clear cuts it is a bit more complicated as you would only want to take the herbs that will be not be able to continue living in an open field. This requires additional knowledge on your part.

Harvest With Respect

Wherever you are harvesting, respect for the environment is important. Making sure you do not damage the environment necessitates your knowing how the various plants interact with each other and how your removal of plants is going to affect a specific ecosystem.  If you remove plants without knowing how to do it in a careful and respectful manner the ecosystem is damaged and further availability of those plants is threatened.

Be honest with the land manager about what you are doing. Harvest conservatively, clean up your garbage and maintain the area of harvest. As herbalists we want to preserve but also manage the environment. The act of our harvesting changes the environment so it is best if we do this in a well thought out manner.

Become a permanent caretaker of weeds
Consider long-term contracts with land managers if that is possible. This will allow you to truly manage a piece of land and get a continual harvest off of it. This is most readily accomplished with private land managers. 




The Nitty Gritty of Collecting Herbs

First get your tools ready

Tools that most wildcrafters find helpful are clippers, knife, shovel, and handsaw. However, I have done a lot of collecting with sticks as a digging tool and rocks to pound off root bark. Sometimes a rock is the best tool in fact.  You also need collecting containers.

If you are collecting in warm weather and want to get back to your house with fresh plant material that is still in good shape, figure out how you will accomplish that. If you drive two hours in mid-July in a hot car or truck, how will your plant material look when you return with them. Things to consider are protecting them in coolers with ice, in boxes or large insulated containers with ice, a car air conditioner, or perhaps even processing the plant in the field.

Once you are ready to go, where will you harvest the plant?

Look for an area that has an abundance of the plant you want to harvest. Make sure the plants look healthy that you plan to harvest. Never take more than the forest or field can replenish in a reasonable amount of time, and never more than you can use. Some  surrounding influences to plants that might effect their health is:
• Power lines
• Soil quality
• Clean water
• Is there any ground contamination nearby? (Don’t harvest near the town dump or in a farmers field that uses pesticides or herbicides or grows genetically modified seed)
• Do other plants they are in community with look healthy?
• Are there a lot of pollinators around? If not, there may be insecticide use on the land.
           
Harvesting the plants

Now you are ready to actually harvest the plant. Do this in a respectful manner. What that means to you can vary from person to person. Some people ask individual plants permission or permission from a grandmother plant. Some people like myself are simply grateful for the plants. I thank spirit for everything I harvest be it a wild plant, a garden plant or a chicken. I thank the being that is giving its life so that I and others may continue to live our lives in a healthy manner. You do what works for you.  Whatever your words or thoughts are, they must be followed by actions of respect.. If you devastate the area by harming the environment while you harvest or harvest so many plants/seeds that the plant can not maintain itself there anymore, your words and thoughts were hollow shells and were not truthful. Walk your talk for your talk to have meaning. It is your actions that show the truth of your intention.

The right time to harvest

Many things effect plants and when you should harvest them. Some of these are the season, time of the day, the phase of the moon and other planetary activity, if the plant is dry, if it is flowering, budding, been pollinated or not etc. There is much to know about when it is best to harvest.

In general, the aerial plant parts are best harvested in the spring and summer, before or during flowering. They should be harvested in the morning after the dew has dried and before the full sun is upon them. Seeds are best harvested when fully ripe and dry. Roots are best harvested late in fall to early spring when the plants' energy is down in its roots.

Specific Information
I have taken some of the most basic and useful ideas for harvesting and listed them below. They are categorized by the plant parts you would be harvesting.

Flowers

• Harvest prior to pollination
• Early in the morning
• In the appropriate stage for that flower such as with many Asteraceae flowers you usually harvest them when their ray flowers are pointing straight up in the air.
• Make sure the flowers are dry. Harvest after the dew is gone.
• Don’t harvest more than 10% of the flowers in that area as you are removing their ability to make seed and create future generations.


Seeds

• Harvest at maturity generally
• Dry seed only
• Don’t harvest more than 10% of the seeds in that area as you are removing their ability to generate more plants.
• Spread the seed – In some cases spreading the seed around will help the plant. If you know how the seed naturally spreads and best grows, you can do a better job of it.
• Collect and grow your own seed for next time

Aerial leafy parts

• Harvest early morning in bud or flower stage but, this can vary. You need to know what is best for that specific plant. Each plant will vary slightly as to what part of the aerial parts you will be picking. It might be the entire aerial part of the plant in bud or flower stage. It could be just the leaves or just the flower tops. You really need to know the specific part of that plant that is used before harvesting the herbs. The dirty or scraggly and woody parts of the plant  are not harvested.
• Dry plant material only.
• Be careful not to harvest too much of any one plant in an area.

Bark

• Take bark from small limbs
• If a tree or shrub needs pruning in the fall or spring, this is a great time to harvest the bark
• Don’t take bark off the trunk unless the tree is destined to be destroyed anyway. If bark is collected from the trunk of a tree, there is a risk damaging the tree irreparably; and if collected from around the tree trunk in a complete ring, the tree will die.
• It is best to harvest bark in the spring and fall when the sap is flowing
• Harvest the inner bark. This is the medicinally active part.
            Often when collecting the bark, you will get both the outer and inner bark together and if the outer bark is not thick it is OK to use it that way in most instances. When getting bark from small limbs the outer bark is not very thick and really too hard to remove anyway.  Sometimes the outer bark is thick and you want to remove it. This is especially true of larger, older limbs. Removal of outer bark is best done when the limb has been freshly removed. Since it is easier to work with fresh bark, remove the outer bark from the desirable inner bark while still fresh and pliable. You will also need to remove the bark from the core or heartwood of the limb. I often use a hammer or rock to remove fresh bark. It will usually fall right off fairly easily. If it dries I usually have to use a knife and it becomes much harder to accomplish.
• Don’t remove more than 10% of the limbs at the very most on any one tree. If you have never pruned trees, get a lesson from someone who has fruit trees on how to prune and it will help you to be a better caretaker of the wild trees you prune.

Roots

• Annuals(not generally used)
• Biennials last only two years usually and you can harvest their roots from the fall of the first year until they start to send out spring shoots in the second year. I prefer them in the fall or winter of the first year, but if I have to will get them in the spring. They are not useful after that.
• Perennials live three or more years. You can harvest their roots from the fall through winter, until  they start to send out spring shoots.
• Good for us & the plant to harvest in the Winter. Our harvesting the root in the fall-spring gives us better potency in our herb  It is additionally healthy for the plant to harvest the roots then as it is able to set seed in the summer and spread that seed prior to our harvesting the roots.
• Thinning is a key idea here with perennials. Thin out thicker areas and leave the plants alone in areas of scarcity.  With some plants, you can take part of the lower root and replant the top part of the root. What I notice however, is that plant is never as healthy as the ones that grow without part of their roots removed. The root left grows strangely.  So, although some herbalists do this, I do not. I would rather take the whole plant than leave an unhealthy plant behind to propagate itself.
• When digging up a root, remember to fill the hole back up with earth.

Fruits

• Generally collected whole such as hawthorne, chaste tree, schisandra
• Collect when fully ripe
• Since bugs tend to like fruit, some fruits are better collected after the first frost to kill bug eggs.

           
If you want specific information on the parts of each plant to collect and when to collect it, that information  is in a chart called Harvesting and Liquid Extract Preparation Chart that can be found in my book “Herbal Medicine From the Heart of the Earth.”
           

Are You Collecting Fresh OR Dry Plants?

Fresh Plants Require
• Immediate processing
• Immediate shipping if you are shipping them to another user
            - ice bags are necessary
            - layer the plants with paper between them and ice bags in the paper. This keep them cool. Other wise they will compost in the center of the box. It also helps keep them from crushing themselves if you wad up the paper layers.
-  holes in box help decrease composting
- next day, second day, ground shipping depends on how delicate they are

Drying Plants Require
• Dry quick, thoroughly – Consider a warm, dry attic with fans. Even a  hot southwest bedroom with fans can work. Open the screened windows for air movement or use fans. If you have a dryer that is helpful for small amounts of herbs. Be careful to protect them from light, insects and night moisture if drying the plants outside.
• Storage -  Protection from insects, heat, air and sunlight and moisture are necessary.

For details on how to dry and store herbs see the blog I will post in a couple days called "How to Dry and Store Herbs."

Additional Resources
Here are ideas for you to learn more about wildcrafting or growing and collecting garden herbs.

Join my class "Becoming An Herbalist" for in-depth information on harvesting herbs. 

Plant Lover's Guide to Wildcrafting by Krista Thie
                Available at Longevity herb Press, 1549 W. Jewett Blvd, White Salmon Wa, 98672 or on Amazon 


Edible & Medicinal Herbs Volume I (Video)
                        narrated by myself and free for you to view in one week - I will re-post it here and announce it on the blog that it is available: (two parts to it)
             Edible & Medicianl Herbs Volume II
narrated by myself and free for you to view here: (two parts to it) 

            The EcoHerbalist fieldbook by Gregory L. Tilford
                        Available at amazon by clicking here:  
 

Get a field guide specific to your area. Take a class in botany. Go on walks with local herbalists or take herb classes in your area. In Eugene Oregon I offer a variety of different herb classes. They change from year to year.